Soca and calypso music, which originated in Trinidad, fueled by the beat of steel pans, provide the soundtrack for the biggest Carnival in the Caribbean, which combines slave celebrations with the traditions of French colonists. The rumbling of the bass to Bunji Garlin’s “Truck on D Road” gets the crowds moving, quite literally. People dance around the streets with music trucks following down the route. You would normally not find me stripped down to almost nothing gyrating to soul calypso on the streets, but when in Trinidad dancing is what it’s all about! Once the festivities begin, there is no sleep to be had.
We arrived with just enough time for a cat nap and then woke up at 2 a.m. to watch Machel Montano perform at the “Insomnia” fete. (Parties are called “fetes” here – left over from the French). As the sun rose over the glistening marina across the street, people shouted “Wah-tah, wah-tah wah-tah” and then hoses suspended from cranes above soaked the energy packed crowd with water as the music played on and the people danced under the new day’s sun.
The next night was J’ouvert, which means dawn. It’s the official mark of the start of Carnival. You meet with your band at 4 a.m. and in our case, cover ourselves in baby oil mixed with cocoa. Other bands used different colored paints, but we all dance through the streets together.
On the big day for Carnival, the streets are filled with pans (steel drums) and families along the parade route waiting for the feathers and finery to appear. A lot of money is spent on elaborate Mas costumes, sometimes taking out special Carnival loans to participate. Bands compete for best costumes, so there is no holding back when it comes to jewels and color. It’s a feast for the eyes! Some of these costumes get down right skimpy and large and small go out in them with full confidence. It was definitely a lesson in celebrating one’s body, no matter the shape or size. It was so liberating!
Like New Orleans, the soul of Trinidad is in its music. Here is a playlist that inspired this year’s Carnival:
Surrounded by people from different ethnicities, races, and beliefs from all across the globe — Indian, Spanish, British, Chinese, African, and French, to name a few, the music and traditions, and especially dialects, accents, and slang, reflect the rich history that has made these islands what they are today. To get around Carnival, here are a few words you’ll need to know.
TRINI DICTIONARY
Bacchanal – party atmosphere
Fete – party
Lime – to hang out in a casual atmosphere e.g. “I feeling to lime.”
Mas – used to refer to Carnival; to play mas – to masquerade
Soca – a type of music indigenous to Trinidad and Tobago (or TnT), derived from “soul calypso”
Wine – the dance of Trinbago. It’s similar to grinding in the States, although a bit more ummm…fluid.
Bess – is a term that can mean either “awesome” or “sexy.” “Dat girl rel bess.” – That girl is really sexy. “Dat rel bess.” – That’s really awesome.
Down D’ Islands – a set of islands between Venezuala and Trinidad that people usually take boats to and rent vacation houses. A lot of people go to the islands after carnival to relax after all of the fetes.
Photos taken by FujiFilm X100s
